LIV Golf's Playbook:

Innovating Without
Losing Traditional Fans

James Watson
SVP of Production at LIV Golf

Every major sport has a past. Few are more closely tied to their time-honored traditions than golf. And so, when LIV Golf launched in 2021, we faced a distinct challenge: How do you reinvent a six-century old sport without breaking so far from its beloved history that traditional fans reject it?

That unique problem, and how we solved it, has lessons for other disruptors that are taking on well-known legacy brands and entrenched business models. Here are three strategies I believe can be applied across industries, from the playbook we used to change the sport of golf for good.

Before discarding the old, consider how it might enrich the new

From the start, we knew talent had to be our competitive edge. We wanted to bring together a group of people who would think differently about how to cover golf — but that didn’t mean we couldn’t use the most innovative talent already in the space to help us create beautiful art from our blank canvas.

Our first hiring decisions could have focused on influencers and YouTube golf personalities, and they are undoubtedly an important part of our community. However, we decided to start by creating a diverse roster of some of the most well-respected names already in the industry: former Ryder Cup player and broadcasting legend David Feherty and premier UK play-by-play announcer Arlo White, as well as US long-drive champion Troy Mullins and former Singaporean pro Su-Ann Heng, among others.

We also sought out the expertise of legendary Fox Sports executive David Hill, who is known through the industry as having revolutionized how sport is broadcast globally, introducing a number of key innovations including the NFL’s virtual ten yard line, now ubiquitous in American football broadcasts.

Early in his career, Hill would visit video game arcades for inspiration. Games, like broadcasts, must use graphics to quickly educate viewers about what is happening and why it matters, and to do so in an entertaining way. And so we’ve intentionally incorporated that video game look and feel into our graphics packages.

The fact that we didn’t
have a legacy media
broadcasting deal
now means we have
more say (and ability)
to do so, through our
own LIV Golf app.

Create your own “peaks” for your audience.

We also followed Hill’s example by focusing on being “live” with our coverage as much as possible — and when we aren’t live, we tell the viewer. Traditional golf broadcasts often take viewers away from some of the most dramatic action, switching from shots that are actually affecting the leaderboard to technically impressive shots that aren’t actually affecting the results. 

Instead, we use one of our biggest innovations, the LIV Golf “pile-on”, to show when the leaderboard is changing as it happens. When you see a score change and we’re not on that shot live, we’ll put up a big “Don’t Blink” animation and then we’ll cut to it: “In case you missed it, this is what just happened…”  

Golf naturally has few dramatic “peaks” compared to other sports, and traditional broadcasts often spend a lot of time explaining why a moment matters after the fact rather than capturing that excitement live. 

By educating the viewer in real-time on what the pivotal moments are as they happen, we’re building the dramatic tension and then giving them an immediate emotional payoff. 

We no longer have to take the viewer away from the shots that actually matter to show off a great golf shot. Instead, we’ll do a segment on those highlight reel shots later — say, the best shots over the last 20 minutes — once there is a pause in the more dramatic action.  For players and their sponsors as well as viewers at home, the shots are shown while for those at home time isn’t wasted.

Is data the new highlight and
are fans the new
free agent?

[ YES ]

The future is fan controlled

[ PROBABLY ]

Over-engineered technology
might sterilize sport

Use your disadvantages, and unlikely inputs, to innovate.

We can be everywhere, all at once, in part because of our unique technological operation: this season, we have around 60cameras working across every hole at our events – 16 tracer cameras, 24 hard cameras, 8 hand-helds, a steady cam, and even 2 drones, among others.

Our distinct tracer camera technology was a discovery made out of necessity. Traditional radar-based tracer companies were hesitant to work with us as a new startup initally, which focused us to look elsewhere — leading us to incorporate optical tech tracers technology developed for an app and revise it for deployment in a broadcast.

Similarly, our innovative “LIV Line” putt predictor came from cleverly adapting technology that was previously used as an iPhone app for amateur golf users trying to improve their putting game.

Will Newell, our Creative Director, is one of the most important voices on our team precisely because he offers a different perspective. Before joining LIV Golf, he had perhaps watched an hour’s worth of golf coverage. 

He often sees things our other producers don’t, and will constructively challenge them, leading to good, healthy debates about how to appeal to both casual golf fans and more hardcare fans.

His feedback is also a good reminder that our broadcast needs to pass the “pub” test: if I am watching at the bar and can’t hear the audio commentary, can I understand what’s going on anyway?

Give fans more control

The focus in the first two years was on our primary feed and primary product. As we move into 2024, our focus shifts to how we can leverage the infrastructure and facilities we’ve created to give the fans more control over their coverage and the players or teams they want to follow.

For instance, if the viewer just wants to watch Phil Mickelson, how do we create that on a second screen? In this case, our initial weakness once again becomes a strength — the fact that we didn’t have a legacy media broadcasting deal now means we have more say (and ability) to do so, through our own LIV Golf app.

We’re also exploring how to use AI to enable that ability to check into featured groups or teams, replacing the need to have a specific production team facilitate that process. And it’s just the start, as we prepare for our third season in 2024, us hosting tournaments from the U.S. to the Middle East, Asia, Australia and beyond, all while broadcasting into 380 million homes across the world. 

Do you agree with this?
Do you disagree or have a completely different perspective?
We’d love to know

More

The Future is Fan Controlled

The Future of Golf Will Be Simulated

Game Over? The Uncertain Future of Live Sports

The Death of Live Sports is Greatly Exaggerated

Live Sport Needs to Embrace the Realities of Reality TV

Tech: The Uncanny Valley of Fan Experience

The Fan Experience Event Preview

LIV Golf’s Playbook: Innovating Without Losing Traditional Fans

Home Field Advantage: The Community Experience is Paramount

Fans Are The New Free Agent

Did Tom Brady Really Say That?

An NBA Player Surveys the AI Opportunity

AI: A Goldmine or a Landmine For Athlete Brands?

Intellectual Property Law and AI: The Future of Athlete Branding

AI forecasting is essential to fashion’s survival

Annie Graziani
Fashion industry insider with decades of experience in managing supply chain operations, vendor relations, process optimization, technology, and reporting projects.

Most of us with a pulse on the business of fashion are familiar with the concept of trend forecasting, informed by runways, specific en vogue patterns or colors, and myriad other factors that influence the merchandise we see when we walk into our favorite retailers.

Increasingly, this is being done with AI modeling and machine learning informed by large swaths of data that paints a clear picture of not only what consumers want, but how much they’re willing to buy. Leveraging a data-informed approach isn’t just a useful insight for successful production and sales — it’s virtually vital to their survival.

In very plain terms, fashion forecasting is an industry-wide practice that informs brand designs, sourcing, and production in such a way that allows them to maximize profit, minimize losses through markdowns and excess post-production waste, and, importantly, lessen their environmental footprint along every step of development — from the earliest stages of ideation to the arrival of merchandise on store shelves.

Most merchandisers use some kind of predictive analytics to inform their output, whether that’s past sales, industry trends, or, more commonly, by utilizing large datasets to paint a picture of not only who their customer is, but how, where, and for what they shop. For many brands big and small, it’s the next best thing to a crystal ball.

And while humans are unpredictable, AI modeling can help brands better understand where to trim the fat, and where to funnel additional resources and funding into growing their business.

I’m steeped in this world of fashion forecasting, and I’ve seen first hand how time and time again data can help merchandisers not only boost profits but minimize their environmental impact by making informed decisions about their output.

Currently, I work for a sustainability brand, but prior to that, I worked for years for major fashion brands — long before “sustainability” was even a buzzword in the industry. 

Predictive analytics is an essential need

There was a time not too long ago that waste — both pre- and post-production — was not only normalized but a widely accepted inevitability of the business. But times have changed dramatically since then.

Now, tightening supply and demand is talked about all the time, certainly to the benefit of the environment and each brand’s responsibility to waste mitigation, but also as a proactive business strategy. Trend forecasting is an essential need for brands that want to avoid excessive markdowns and excess textile waste, particularly where it relates to knowing and building rapport with their consumer base. 

Let’s back up a little bit. In order to thrive in an expansive marketplace of virtually unlimited choice, it’s crucial for brands to connect with a specific demographic of consumer, and more importantly, continue to finetune their product to keep that demographic returning.

For example, a brand like Patagonia might focus on marketing to consumers who align with their specific values and are willing to pay a premium to offset the costs of, say, ethical materials sourcing. Another brand like Zara might appeal to someone who wants a luxury look without the luxury price tag, while yet another brand — let’s say Chanel — is able to significantly price up its products because its customers are primarily status shoppers.

Regardless of who the brand is catering to, understanding the specific tastes of those customers allows brands to allocate budgets, source textiles, and retail their products while also mitigating as much waste as possible.

Machine learning can also help brands understand other factors like sentiment analysis, allowing them to assess and recalibrate factors like customer experience to ensure continued business. Moreover, this kind of data provides insights to merchandisers in real-time. That’s as good as gold for brands.

These brands rely heavily on rich datasets to understand otherwise complex patterns of consumer behavior, allowing them to make informed decisions that, again, not only benefit the earth but minimize what can amount to millions in lost profit. It’s no secret that big name brands have long destroyed their excess post-production waste through methods like burning, painting, or shredding — and that ain’t cheap (nor does it benefit a brand’s bottom line).

Finished goods waste is a complete loss at every level, involving pollution forms that span everything from chemical and fiber waste to material waste and excessive warehouse space. Especially in this conscious-consumer environment, it’s not only a bad look, it’s potentially damaging.

Why AI forecasting reigns king

Some critics of the system argue that such forecasting relies too heavily on past consumer behavior to inform future production planning. Alternative methods, for example, focus more on pre-production sustainability rather than behavior-informed trend forecasting. However these data-driven decision making processes have proven an invaluable tool for reducing waste and ensuring continued business with suppliers.

By analyzing consumer buy trends, brands can waste less fabric and make informed decisions about their brand positioning and product offering — the effects of which I’d argue are essential to the survival of brands in a post-pandemic consumer market. 

That said, I’d also argue that while data-informed forecasting is preferential for many merchandisers, there’s room for more than one approach to tackling our sustainability crisis.

Short of made-to-order merchandising, few brands are willing or able to tackle the sustainability crisis from all angles — such as tracing a product from its inception to post-consumer discard — without some form of regulatory intervention. But the benefit of AI forecasting is that brands still have the freedom to generate original ideas and beautiful art while also responsibly scaling those visions with as little excess as is possible under our current system.

Here’s the bottom line: Brands should not only want to use AI forecasting tailored to their individual brands, but merchandisers need them if they want to reduce excess waste and maximize profits. Machine learning modeling helps businesses make informed decisions that people simply cannot.

Do you agree with this?
Do you disagree or have a completely different perspective?
We’d love to know

More

The Fashion Industry Treats Tech Like a Seasonal Trend

Ownership Has Fallen Out of Fashion Recap

Out With The New, In With The Old

The Future is Authenticated, Brands Risk Missing the Opportunity

Brands that AI forecast, fall. Brands that react, rise.

IP Law Applies to Physical and Digital Fashion Goods

Ownership has fallen out of fashion

AI forecasting is essential to fashion’s survival

HOME FIELD

ADVANTAGE:

THE COMMUNITY

EXPERIENCE IS

PARAMOUNT

Don Povia
CMO at BYB Extreme Fighting Series

My love for sports began when I was little. In the early 80’s my Godfather drove me and my dad an hour south and a toll-bridge away to Vet’s Stadium in Philly to see the great Charlie Hustle in action. Pete Rose had shown up in 1979 from the Reds with a then-unheard-of, four-year, $3.2 million free-agent contract, and the year after that, he led the Phillies to their first World Series win ever: It was a big deal. And in case I hadn’t picked up on that, he even said, “When you’re older, you’ll remember your Godfather took you to see Pete Rose.” So what? 

Pete Rose’s reputation was tarnished less than a decade later because gambling allegations forced him to accept a ban from baseball that lasts to this day. Doesn’t matter. I remember being in these shitty outfield seats at the Vet, and my Godfather was so proud. For me and the men in my family, that experience, and that camaraderie still resonates today. It always goes back to the game, and the common experience that unites a community of fans.

Fast forward to 1993: In between Marlboro Lights in the dugout, Lenny Dykstra leads the Phils to a 4-2 series victory over the division rival Atlanta Braves, only to get shut out by the Canadians in the World Series. The 1994 MLB strike hits --- hey, remember the 1981 strike after the 1980 series? --- and it takes another 15 years for the Phils to return, and win their second World Series. The Phils are playing the Braves again, and reports of bargain $300 tickets have already become commonplace. If the Phils make it to the Series again, what’s the over-under on another MLB stoppage/strike to deal with next season in full curse fashion?


Just like the Vet is history, so is how we as fans connect with our sport, our tribe, and our adrenaline club, and the number of ways to experience that fandom has exponentially increased along with the technology we’re experiencing it through. While established pro leagues like the Big 3 (NFL, MLB, and NBA), which are competing for those finite number of eyeballs, think they are using tech to guide the fan experience, it’s the opposite that’s true. Sports fans are going to be the ones using tech to dictate the future of sports, both in the experience and in the business of providing it. 

Once upon a time, the Big 3 were the disruptive distractions of their day, upstart start-ups of the Victorian era, where the Industrial Revolution and labor reforms reduced a 12-hour workday to an eight-hour one that promised a two-day weekend, creating the novel concept of leisure time. Baseball was invented by Abner Doubleday sometime before the Civil War, football developed out of the Rutgers and Princeton scrimmages in New Jersey which formed the basis of the Ivy League, and basketball was a YMCA calisthenics routine developed by James Naismith. By the turn of the century, all this organized watching of grown men chasing balls around had become big business.

Sports fans are going to be the ones using tech to dictate the future of sports, both in the experience and in the business of providing it.” 

Today, we’re living through our own revolution, as the computer, gave way to the internet, gave way to the smartphone, gave way to the cloud, and now AI.

Today, we’re living through our own revolution, as the computer, gave way to the internet, gave way to the smartphone, gave way to the cloud, and now AI. We still want our games, and our idols, and to shout our war cries in unison with our tribe, to be there, together, united in something larger than the sum of its parts, in the experience and spectacle of sport, which not only often serves as an analogy for life, but acts as a celebration of life itself. 

People who were born 21 years ago have mostly had the option of having everything at their fingertips. Market analysts are even predicting that people will spend $7 billion a year to watch other people play video games, so-called esports.

I’m 45. I prefer to play video games than watch someone else play them. Watching people play video games is what you did at the arcade while you called dibs on the next game of Mortal Kombat with quarters on the cabinet, or when your brother was hogging the NES. Now, it’s a $1.5 billion market already. Fans half my age grew up in a different atmosphere, so for me with a lot of these things I might not enjoy it, I might not understand it, but I respect the fact that there’s a segment of the population that does because that’s what they grew up with. 


It’s no secret that video games are a bigger market than sports. While the U.S. pro sports market clocks in around $70 billion a year, video games, with mobile games being the largest and quickest-growing segment, are expected to account for more than $200 billion in U.S. sales this year.   

Is the NFL immune from disruption?

This topic kept coming up in our various events: the NFL is God. And God is immune to all the forces that are challenging the other incumbent leagues like the NBA and MLB. What makes the NFL so powerful? Is it a better TV experience? Is it a better sport? The rest of the world would argue against that. (And they probably want the word football back).

[ YES ]

Better storytelling can bring new audiences to traditional sports

Different segments of fans are going to consume in different ways and you don’t ignore one for the other if you want to maintain growth in a market of ever-growing choices, a finite number of eyeballs, and just so much time, so that all goes back to the fans dictating whether something is going to be successful or not, whether it’s a pitch clock, or real-time digital overlays and sky cams that make NFL games look like more like EA’s Madden series than any TV football from my childhood.

Wearing my dual hats as a fan and a sports professional, I have always tried to proactively approach the convergence of technology and fandom with an open mind. To effectively market to fans, I must understand that it is not a monolithic group and that I need to integrate with their consumption habits, not force them into those I assume are standards across the board.

As the Chief Marketing Officer at BYB Extreme Fighting Series, a start-up in the professional sports space that brings what’s exciting about boxing and MMA together with a knockout-oriented bare-knuckle boxing match, I’m faced with this challenge/opportunity daily. For instance, recently, a game developer approached our franchise with a mobile boxing game, where we literally “took the gloves” off the avatars and branded the skins with bare-knuckle fighters.

Without any marketing, it’s already got 30,000 pre-orders on Google Play, which indicates to me not only a new and potentially profitable revenue opportunity but more importantly in the immediate and long, an opportunity to integrate and introduce our brand with a new, rabid fanbase on their terms, in their arena. Within this digital arena, we can market – run commercials – for our live shows, merchandise, and social channels. Conversely, we can promote the game through those avenues. 

And to me, that’s just a natural evolution.  Fans just want to feel a part of a tribe. The experience I had with my dad and Godfather back in Philly, that classic moment to be remembered, that rite of passage, today, that might be a kid whose sports idol likes their Instagram post or TikTok, the 21st-century version of Mean Joe Greene throwing a sweaty Steelers jersey at a bright-eyed kid all in exchange for a little compassion and well-placed bottle of Coca-Cola. All that matters is the game, and the congregation of enough fanatics to turn it into a communion. Fans always have the home-field advantage.

Do you agree with this?
Do you disagree or have a completely different perspective?
We’d love to know

More

The Future is Fan Controlled

The Future of Golf Will Be Simulated

Game Over? The Uncertain Future of Live Sports

The Death of Live Sports is Greatly Exaggerated

Live Sport Needs to Embrace the Realities of Reality TV

Tech: The Uncanny Valley of Fan Experience

The Fan Experience Event Preview

LIV Golf’s Playbook: Innovating Without Losing Traditional Fans

Home Field Advantage: The Community Experience is Paramount

Fans Are The New Free Agent

Did Tom Brady Really Say That?

An NBA Player Surveys the AI Opportunity

AI: A Goldmine or a Landmine For Athlete Brands?

Intellectual Property Law and AI: The Future of Athlete Branding

EVENT PREVIEW

The Fan Experience Event

We are taking the discourse to Nashville. Join us on October 25th for drinks, dinner, and discourse at Frankies in East Nashville. Here’s our preview…

On the other side of the tracks at the edge of East Hill lies the first-ever southern expansion of the renowned Brooklyn Italian restaurant, Frankie’s Spuntino. More like a tree-lined campus than a restaurant, Frankies Nashville houses a variety of craft-spaces and facilities in a warm, authentic, and informal atmosphere.

We are preparing for an active discourse on The Fan Experience. Our members will be joined by a collection of high level sports and media industry experts who will define and defend their perspective on the features that will shape fan engagement for the next decade and longer. We will have representatives from incumbent leagues as well as executives from insurgent leagues who see the unbundling of sports media rights as an opportunity to capture market share. Who has it right? Let’s discourse it and get some perspective.

There has to be something special about Nashville, because the legendary Brooklyn restaurant has never before ventured outside the brownstone-stacked streets of its home turf. Frankies Spuntino is more than an Italian restaurant, it is a cultural institution that set a new standard for authentic, simple, world class Italian food. In his final column, outgoing New York Times food critic Sam Sifton wrote: “The best meal I had on the job? It was in the garden of Frankies on a summer evening.” You can be assured the food will be excellent and the company will be ready to rumble.

The famous southern red oak trees of Nashville will be at their peak fall colors. The drinks will be cold, the lights will be low. The company will be world-class. If you want to attend, let us know. If you can’t make it, stay tuned for our event recap which will capture the moments of perspective that matter.

Interested in becoming a member and attending? Inquire about membership here: memberships@ondiscourse.com.

More

The Future is Fan Controlled

The Future of Golf Will Be Simulated

Game Over? The Uncertain Future of Live Sports

The Death of Live Sports is Greatly Exaggerated

Live Sport Needs to Embrace the Realities of Reality TV

Tech: The Uncanny Valley of Fan Experience

The Fan Experience Event Preview

LIV Golf’s Playbook: Innovating Without Losing Traditional Fans

Home Field Advantage: The Community Experience is Paramount

Fans Are The New Free Agent

Did Tom Brady Really Say That?

An NBA Player Surveys the AI Opportunity

AI: A Goldmine or a Landmine For Athlete Brands?

Intellectual Property Law and AI: The Future of Athlete Branding

Fans are the

new free agent

In our chaotic attention economy, nothing beats live sports. Live sports has been one of the last bastions of linear broadcast media, a tectonic force strong enough to redefine the way our society organizes itself; if you are skeptical of this argument, then consider the way we define Sunday. If we go back far enough in U.S. history, Sunday was designated as a day of rest from work in order to provide enough time for religious observation — that is, of course, until the NFL got big enough to knock God out of game day.

The game on the field alone does not explain this story — it was caused by the rise of television, advertising, and, finally, fan obsession. At the root of this story is a question of what products, channels, features, and experiences can drive the next generation of high volume fan attention. We know how valuable and powerful this attention is and how it used to work, and we also know it is about to change significantly. Welcome to ON_Sport: The Fan Experience. Fans are the new free agent.

What makes fans the new free agents? The answer is simple: unlike prior eras when there were limited choices, today’s fans have to actively opt-out of an infinite feed of personalized alternative sports programming so they can opt-into traditional sport media experiences and leagues. In other words, like MLB players after Curt Flood’s court case, the fans have options.

The once-stable market for America’s primary sports leagues are in a state of flux. The NBA, MLB, NHL, and most importantly, the NFL are leveraging a fading live and regional sports broadcasting model that remains massively profitable, but for an uncertain amount of time. At the same time, an alternative batch of professional leagues, startups, and brands are leveraging new methods of engagement that do not rely on traditional broadcast models and which are showing promising results. Can these insurgent leagues capture market share from the incumbents?

The combination of these forces are resetting fan expectations for how they consume the game, what matters most to their experience, and where the business opportunities lie in an uncertain future. In this issue we will explore the following questions:

How do media rights impact fans?

Media rights have long been the cash cow of professional sports.

We explored whether this system can sustain long-term profitability amidst the changing digital landscape and the unbundling of cable distribution.

The future of live sports may be uncertain, but some believe live sports need to embrace reality TV while others are steadfast that the death of live sports is greatly exaggerated.

Can insurgent leagues capture market share from the NFL?

The NFL is God, who is immune to all the forces challenging other incumbent leagues, like the NBA and MLB.

We explored what makes the NFL so powerful: a better TV experience, a better sport, or simply scarcity.

Can this ecosystem be disrupted? Sports need tribes to survive but better storytelling can bring new audiences to traditional sports.

So, are fans the new free agents?

In the age of data, the role fans play in sports is unclear.

Some argue that sports need to be careful not to turn off traditional fans while others believe sports need to completely reimagine the games and put fans in control.

Sports can go all-in on a future that is controlled by fans or try to innovate without losing traditional fans.

Time for discourse. Throughout this Living Issue, we released a number of pieces from a variety of industry experts. We published provocative positions representing alternative and opposing sides about The Fan Experience. If you think the NFL is going to stay dominant for the next generation of sports fans, for example, expect a piece that challenges that assumption. The same thinking applies If you think F1 can teach the NBA a lesson on how to engage with fans, to pick another example. As with any Living Issue, we will continuously update and we will cover all the angles. Finally, let us know if you have a position you want to add to the discourse.

More

The Future is Fan Controlled

The Future of Golf Will Be Simulated

Game Over? The Uncertain Future of Live Sports

The Death of Live Sports is Greatly Exaggerated

Live Sport Needs to Embrace the Realities of Reality TV

Tech: The Uncanny Valley of Fan Experience

The Fan Experience Event Preview

LIV Golf’s Playbook: Innovating Without Losing Traditional Fans

Home Field Advantage: The Community Experience is Paramount

Fans Are The New Free Agent

Did Tom Brady Really Say That?

An NBA Player Surveys the AI Opportunity

AI: A Goldmine or a Landmine For Athlete Brands?

Intellectual Property Law and AI: The Future of Athlete Branding

How buying our clothes used took over the market, and the conversation, in 2023

Breana Teubner
Try Your Best COO,
Investor and advisor

Out With
The New,

In With
The Old

I couldn’t believe it. I was about to spend $35 to check an empty suitcase at JFK. 

This is when I knew our closets were about to change.

It was 2016, and I was returning to California from a shopping trip to NYC. A frequent visitor to the city, I’d always bring an extra bag for new clothes. But this time, it came back empty. I hadn’t bought anything.

What happened? That was the year I started using Rent the Runway. Almost immediately, my shopping changed. Why spend $250 on a trendy sweater when I could just rent one – or three?

Throw in TheRealReal and a few more upstarts, and today, I doubt I’m the only one leaving NYC empty-handed.

It’s a monumental shift. The secondary fashion market was once just that – secondary. But now, it increasingly seems to come first. Rentals, resales, and vintage are taking over our closets, forcing brands to rethink where and how they operate. So far, they’ve been slow to adapt. But with the $25B+ market predicted to grow 10 to 15 percent per year over the next decade, it’s something they can no longer afford to ignore.

Behind the shift is a radically new mindset around used clothes. In the past, few found value in vintage, rental, or resale. Today, that perception is changing. Now, new doesn’t always equal best.

Once considered a way to save money, for example, rentals are now a great way to move quickly and stay on trend. Meanwhile, vintage is all about being more creative. Why limit yourself to the cadence and style of global fashion brands, the thinking goes, when you can express yourself more authentically via the vintage market – which is larger and far more diverse. Now, primary is almost “basic”, while secondary is seen as unique. 

Though the mindset is important, we wouldn’t be here without technology. Startups like TheRealReal have brought much-needed confidence and trust, assuring buyers of both quality and authenticity. Particularly when it comes to luxury, the value of these platforms can’t be overstated, and their growth (predicted at 25-30 percent annually) is in many ways driving that of the sector.

To be fair, this has not gone unnoticed, with brands already changing the way they make clothes. Mass fashion retailers, for example, typically deal in three types of garments: basics, which they sell year-round; seasonal basics, for roughly half the year; and “quick trends”, which last only a few months. With rentals increasingly taking over seasonal and quick trends, brands are leaning more heavily into quality-made basics. Soon, we may even see them creating specific lines just for rental, like the outlet-only lines of the 90s. 

But this is only the tip of the iceberg. With technology bringing the secondary market out of stores and onto the web, brands can finally participate in – and capture – a share of the value created beyond the original point of sale. The opportunity is significant. While those that wait on the sidelines will continue to see their products traded secondhand, says a recent McKinsey study, “done prudently, brand entry should not erode margins, and would result in only limited cannibalization.”

Of the many ways brands can monetize the secondary market, the most obvious is taking some percentage of value from transactions involving their products. Many are beginning to explore this, particularly through take-back and trade-in programs. DÔEN’s “Hand Me Dôen”, for example, helps shoppers trade in used items, with the brand facilitating shipping, inspection, and providing store credit once approved. Members are even rewarded, gaining early access to new collections. As DÔEN puts it, the program is an integral part of its commitment to moving past linear business models, helping customers find “joy and value – both financial and emotional – in wearing and sharing pre-loved garments.”

For all its upside, the secondary market is not without its risks. Brand control is particularly challenging. Today, more and more customers buy luxury primarily (or even only) through these channels. This creates a problem: spend five minutes on eBay and you’ll find countless luxury items being sold, for lack of a better word, cheaply. Think bad photos with harsh lighting, or LV sunglasses in a Chanel case. Compare that to the billions spent crafting the perfect image at the original point of sale – on models, photographers, advertising, and expensive retail stores – and the gap becomes painfully clear.

Succeeding in this new environment means adapting to both sides of the coin. Leading brands will take steps not only to seize the value presented by this longer lifecycle, but to protect themselves as their garments work their way through it.

Do you agree with this?
Do you disagree or have a completely different perspective?
We’d love to know

More

The Fashion Industry Treats Tech Like a Seasonal Trend

Ownership Has Fallen Out of Fashion Recap

Out With The New, In With The Old

The Future is Authenticated, Brands Risk Missing the Opportunity

Brands that AI forecast, fall. Brands that react, rise.

IP Law Applies to Physical and Digital Fashion Goods

Ownership has fallen out of fashion

AI forecasting is essential to fashion’s survival

Event Recap

Matthew Chmiel
Head of Discourse

On the last day of New York Fashion Week, ON_Discourse convened a breakfast event around our recent ON_Fashion release: The Secondary Market Issue. Let’s recap…

Overlooking Governor’s Island from the elegant confines of Casa Cipriani, fifteen C-suite experts, investors, and ON_Discourse members engaged in rigorous dialogue about the technology and platforms that are redefining the concepts of ownership in the fashion industry.

Toby Daniels and Michael Treff served as primary provokers representing ON_Discourse. Toby stopped me in the hallway before the session to tell me his game plan: “Fashion Week is underway and I want to redirect all of that attention away from design trends and into the technology advancements that are opening up new markets for this industry. On top of that, I want to get real opinions from the group,” he said, a fire in his eyes, “more finger pointing and less head nodding.”

I was in the room and can testify that Toby’s game plan was successful. By the end of the session, several people were trying to double-dutch their final word before starting their business day. I saw more than a few notable head shakes and heard enough sighs to tell me that this room experienced some heat. And like clean-up time in preschool, there was an undeniable disappointment that our time together had ended. This has always been our goal at ON_Discourse.  Check out the key takeaways and moments from this morning and let me know if anything here makes you want to push this thinking forward. And members, the good news is that we are still here, ready and willing to hear your follow up arguments and positions on this matter. The Secondary Market Issue is always open for a follow up.

As always the pull-quotes are not and will never be attributed.

Key

Provocations:

The fashion industry has a strange relationship with technology (strong backend innovation, and unnecessary hype around CX).

The fast fashion industry wants to destroy what you own.

A brand has no right to your resale revenue.

Discourse

Rating

Disagreeable — there were productive moments of low boiling and some unresolvable ambiguity in the room. We believe that these moments are the strongest opportunity to develop original insights that can help you make better decisions.

Key Takeaways, Quotes,

and Moments:

In the fashion industry, the backend always powers the next innovation.

  • The fashion industry is fundamentally design-driven. This explains the curious relationship it has with technology - on one hand the industry is introducing cutting edge technology to advance item tracking and authentication, while on the other hand, every year we see it chasing a new CX trend like NFTs or AR items. The design ethos cannot sustain new tech forces beyond a single seasonal trend cycle.

The secondary market is creeping up on the luxury market.

  • Luxury brands don’t have to think about the secondary market because the ultra-net-worth buyer is never going away. Their reliable purchase activity is a certainty that keeps the luxury market viable.. Nevertheless, the secondary market is inadvertently expanding luxury brands into wider audience segments. The implications of this expansion are not yet known.

Brands have a right to authenticate their products.

  • The implications of authentication quickly segmented the room into two opposing opinions. There were strong objections to adding extra costs added to newly authenticated items. These costs amounted to a new vig to fund a brand’s expansion into the secondary market. This concept led the group to question the very notion of ownership, prompting one participant to say “If you make money on my resale, I don’t fully own the product.”

“But I don’t think you should pay rent on authenticity.”

  • The implications of authentication quickly segmented the room into two opposing opinions. There were strong objections to any extra costs added to newly authenticated items. These costs amounted to a new vig that powers the secondary market. 
  • On the other hand, the marketing, design, and manufacturing effort that accumulates into brand value is the primary source of resale value; there were several advocates for this fact in the room who were comfortable shooting down these defensive claims about rent.

Brands have to earn the right to secondary market revenue.

  • The discourse concluded on a crescendo; the secondary market represents a new dimension in the relationship between brands and their customers. This dimension will drive immense and growing value for both sides but the path to revenue requires transparency and shared values. It is not enough to pad retail prices with authentication taxes that can cover resale value; the primary path to resolution involves a deeper level of community and communication between brands and their customers. The brands that will succeed in this space will earn the trust from their customers that will shape and define a more mature version of the secondary market. The one thing the room agreed on was that the secondary market is not going anywhere.

How do you react to the takeaways from the event? What have you been thinking about in this issue? Let us know and join the discourse. Reach out to me at chmiel@ondiscourse.com and we can keep the discourse flowing.

More

The Fashion Industry Treats Tech Like a Seasonal Trend

Ownership Has Fallen Out of Fashion Recap

Out With The New, In With The Old

The Future is Authenticated, Brands Risk Missing the Opportunity

Brands that AI forecast, fall. Brands that react, rise.

IP Law Applies to Physical and Digital Fashion Goods

Ownership has fallen out of fashion

AI forecasting is essential to fashion’s survival

It’s not news that luxury fashion has woken up to the potential importance of the secondary market. As the CEO of One of None, I have spent the last two years talking to fashion companies about the issue of authentication. Brands primarily see the problem through the lens of reputation protection and address it via litigation. But the missing provenance from luxury resales is much more than that. 

DeShone Kizer
Founder and CEO of One of None, a marketplace for digitally-linked limited editions across fine art, fashion, & collectibles.


The Future is
Authenticated, Brands
Risk Missing the
Opportunity

Provenance – or the lack of it – lies at the heart of a radical, transformational shift in the marketplace. Solve the provenance conundrum and you shape the future of luxury sales – and positively impact every player in the creator-collector-consumer-investor nexus. Continue to kick the can down the road, and the secondary marketplace doesn’t go away, it simply grows disfigured and misshapen. (Cue the Darth Vader music.)

Provenance has dramatically increased in importance because the secondary market is now unrecognizable from even just a few years ago, upended by a convergence of new buyer preferences and new technology platforms: think peer-to-peer digital exchanges such as Poshmark and eBay, and curated marketplaces such as StockX and Goat. 

Secondary markets are

becoming the primary place

for buyers

Driving this change are investors and collectors who have passionately embraced the secondary market despite the brands they love staying on the resale sidelines. Stats from the 2023 thredUp Resale Report show that younger buyers increasingly look to the secondary markets to make a purchase before checking the primary market. The same study shows that 9 in 10 luxury resale buyers end up making a full-price purchase from the brands they shop in the secondary market – and 75% of luxury resale buyers have also contributed to the market as sellers.

The financial scale of the secondary market has correspondingly changed, too. The global luxury resale market is estimated to be nearly $33 billion today – and is expected to balloon to $52 billion by 2026. That’s an eye-popping 62% increase in just three years that’s simply too big to leave to the lawyers. 

At the same time, the lines between consumers, collectors, and investors have increasingly blurred. Those Hermes Birkin Bags or Nike Travis Scott Air Jordan 1’s not only appreciate exponentially in value – they are resold again and again in future years. And as they do, the same doubt about provenance – and opportunity for savvy counterfeiters to enter the stream – reemerges at each new transaction point. 

Brands are

fighting

the wrong

counterfeiting battle

Consensus estimates place the impact of counterfeiting in the luxury goods market above $600 billion annually. It’s no wonder counterfeiters are digging in their Louboutin heels and feeling confident they can win at legal whack-a-mole. 

LVMH employs over 60 lawyers and spends nearly $17 million each year on legal fees related to anti-counterfeiting lawsuits. Chanel won an $11.5 million settlement with TheRealReal over counterfeits sold as authentic Chanel pieces. Nike is also currently working through several lawsuits with StockX for selling digital products marketed as 100% authentic. It’s a good fight, but ultimately a drop in the bucket.

Instead of fighting these counterfeiting battles in the courts they could simply make it easier for consumers to know what they’re buying is real. A focus on working with secondary marketplaces on using unbreakable digital certification would not eliminate counterfeits entirely but make them far less valuable and sought after.

By creating a unique digital ID – essentially a digital counterpart or certificate – for every luxury physical item, creators forever ‘mark’ the item as a one-of-a-kind. 

In the fine art world, physical works are sold with paper Certificates of Authenticity that validate a work’s origins and buyer history. Digital authentication does the same, but via a mechanism that cannot be lost, copied or hacked – and is portable to any digital ecosystem. 

The resale

royalty opportunity

Importantly, these digital certificates are already ‘future-proofed’ in anticipation of the next phase of the digital secondary marketplace – resale royalties. This is the concept of a creator customizing the digital certificate at the outset so that for every future resale, whether public or private, they receive a predetermined fractional royalty payment. 

This option can be existentially important to an emerging solo artist or creator who is just beginning to make a name for themselves. For large, mega-brands, they’ll need to weigh the pros of royalty revenue vs the cons of buyer push-back – but at a minimum it’s something that must be discussed in C-suites given the market’s new dynamics.

Like a song royalty, fractional payments add up. In the near future, these royalties can increasingly become critical components of business plans and revenue streams. 

Our internal models at my company, One of None, predict that in the next decade – if major brands overcome the authentication challenge – they will be generating at least 20% to 30% of their limited edition sales revenue from precisely these digitally-linked secondary marketplaces. And that’s the conservative estimate.

Brands need to get off the sidelines and play an active role in shaping the future of secondary marketplaces. Digital transformations happen when they make good business sense. The authentication solution is the latest example of this – and it’s about to reach its tipping point and rapidly scale.

Do you agree with this?
Do you disagree or have a completely different perspective?
We’d love to know

More

The Fashion Industry Treats Tech Like a Seasonal Trend

Ownership Has Fallen Out of Fashion Recap

Out With The New, In With The Old

The Future is Authenticated, Brands Risk Missing the Opportunity

Brands that AI forecast, fall. Brands that react, rise.

IP Law Applies to Physical and Digital Fashion Goods

Ownership has fallen out of fashion

AI forecasting is essential to fashion’s survival

Brands

that AI

forecast,

fall.

 Brands

that react,

rise.

Dr. Ahmed Zaidi
Co-Founder and Chief Executive of Hyran Technologies,
Visiting AI researcher at Cambridge University

Artificial intelligence is more and more frequently being used by brands for trend forecasting, taking into consideration variables such as consumer behavior, runway trends, and various trends in fabrication, colors, and other themes. What many do not realize, however, is that AI trend forecasting is contributing more to our textiles waste crisis than many other waste-generating culprits, like post-production disposal by consumers. I am deeply familiar with this issue, as I come from a family of textile manufacturers that have directly felt the consequences of inaccurate forecasts. 

AI forecasting is a noisy guess masquerading as an objective analysis — and manufacturers know it. My family suffered from not only an excess waste problem but was often put in financial distress when the forecast against which we bought and planned our raw materials was inevitably wrong. 

Attempting to predict the future with AI technologies is futile — particularly for production cycles exceeding more than a few seasons. Human behavior is largely unpredictable, and a virtually infinite number of unforeseen variables may impact the success of products once they reach stores, contributing to excess inventory and thus waste. That’s before we even account for everything that happened before those products were available for sale.

While predictive AI forecasting is a massively imperfect system, AI systems still can vastly improve sustainability efforts for brands by instead mitigating inventory risk. This can be achieved by narrowing production lead times, and allowing cross-collaboration between brands and their suppliers by unlocking agility and flexibility in the supply chain. To drive a sustainable and efficient supply requires multi-dimensional optimization, something humans struggle with but AI systems thrive at.

 

Cutting

pre-production

waste

Macro- and micro-trend forecasting have faced scrutiny by sustainability advocates who argue ever-changing seasonal textile trends and fast fashion are contributing to our waste crisis. But few have argued that AI modeling for predicting consumer behavior months or even years into the future is at fault, and even fewer have provided a clear alternative to this industry-wide practice. 

We have the tools to use AI for multi-dimensional supply chain optimization to shorten production lead times instead of using it for predicting future demand, which is a huge contributor to our tens of millions of tons of manufacturer-generated waste each year. Overproducing generated by AI forecasting — a kind of crystal ball system for attempting to predict unpredictable consumer behavior — is not only hurting our environment with textile waste, but it’s also detrimental to manufacturers and their working conditions. Inaccurate forecasts force manufacturers to make last-minute changes and work longer hours to meet the changes demand.

Regulators in regions of the US and abroad have proposed that brands pay up for their contributions to our global waste crisis, including by funding textile recycling programs by paying for the volume of products they produce. These policies, or “extended producer responsibility” (EPR) regulations, could look similar to programs used to reduce waste for things like batteries and mattresses — among other materials that can be difficult to recycle. They attempt to mitigate overproduction by holding the brands of these goods responsible. But as noted by Bloomberg, and as is often the case with these types of fees, it’s likely these companies would attempt to offset such fees by passing the costs to consumers.

That’s another way that AI could work to overhaul the production process and ultimately curb waste in ways that regulatory fees may not: this kind of modeling could help eliminate production waste before products reach consumers. By harnessing AI to eliminate waste and excess costs to brands from the earliest stages of product development, brands could potentially avoid damaging price-gouging to consumers while also minimizing the fees they pay for any waste they generate under such policy frameworks. 

Each year, around a trillion dollars is lost to markdown programs, making the economic benefits to brands using AI in this new, more proactive way clear. Furthermore, using AI for multi-dimensional supply chain optimization could also have far-reaching benefits to the fashion industry at large, including contributing to greater sustainability efforts and redistributing those costs to improving workers’ wages. For instance, if enough small- or medium-scale brands buy into this collaborative AI-driven information sharing at the earliest stages of product development, they stand to benefit tremendously from their combined spend at the materials level — perhaps even meeting or exceeding the spend of a singular large-label brand.

Forecasting

versus reactive

modeling

Convincing brands to break tradition with industry-wide practices is a clear hurdle, particularly for established heavyweights for whom change to existing systems is a slow process. Fashion houses with long-established manufacturer relationships may be more reluctant to explore alternative methods to supply chain navigation. But again, I’d argue there’s tremendous potential to smaller and medium-level brands as well as lower margin brands who, through collaboration and transparency made possible with AI optimization modeling — rather than futile forecasting — could see significant gains and recaptured profit by eliminating potential markdowns or post-production waste.

By viewing production from a risk perspective, it’s possible to approximate a brand’s carbon footprint not only from a single-product lifespan, but rather multiple lifespans: circular, remaking and secondary, and re-owning. As our textile waste crisis comes under increased scrutiny, brands have new opportunities to harness AI to ethically produce, both to their own benefit as well as to consumers and the environment.

Do you agree with this?
Do you disagree or have a completely different perspective?
We’d love to know

More

The Fashion Industry Treats Tech Like a Seasonal Trend

Ownership Has Fallen Out of Fashion Recap

Out With The New, In With The Old

The Future is Authenticated, Brands Risk Missing the Opportunity

Brands that AI forecast, fall. Brands that react, rise.

IP Law Applies to Physical and Digital Fashion Goods

Ownership has fallen out of fashion

AI forecasting is essential to fashion’s survival

THE

SECONDARY

MARKET

ISSUE #003

Ownership

has fallen out of

The relationship between fashion and technology has always been a curious one. Early hesitations from high-end fashion brands about embracing online storefronts, the influential role of social media, and the rush to hop onto trending bandwagons like NFTs and the metaverse highlight the dynamics of their interaction. Yet, technology has also paved the way for market expansions, ushering in the era of direct-to-consumer (D2C) models and influencer-driven retail.

A rapidly evolving landscape is the secondary market. Changing consumer behaviors challenge traditional ownership ideals. Technology is swiftly introducing new authentication methods, from innovative material designs to more advanced techniques. Legacy platforms such as eBay are vying for dominance in this secondary market alongside newer disruptors like TheRealReal.

Brands grapple with their place in this secondary market. Some, like Patagonia, Levis, and DOEN, are reclaiming, authenticating, and reselling products. Others destroy surplus inventory to artificially create scarcity and elevate value. Strategies are emerging that leverage the secondary market’s appeal to boost primary sales, as seen with Nike and Supreme. Legal battles ensue over intellectual property rights, such as the StockX vs. Nike case. Innovative startups, like One of None, are reimagining ownership concepts, while established ventures, like Rent-The-Runway, question the notion of ownership altogether. Not to mention, social media platforms are enabling individuals to bypass traditional avenues, building personal followings to directly sell secondary products.

JOIN US FOR ON_FASHION,
A DISCOURSE FILLED EVENT DEBATING THE FUTURE OF
THE SECONDARY MARKET.

CASA CIPRIANI
SEPTEMBER 13TH
9AM-11AM

Inquire about attending:
memberships@ondiscourse.com

This evolving landscape demands fresh technological solutions to tackle emerging challenges and uncover new opportunities. We're confronted with both time-tested queries and novel contemplations:

  • How can products be accurately authenticated?
  • How can consumers ensure the authenticity of their purchases?
  • Should brands be entitled to receive royalties in secondary sales?
  • Is the concept of ownership still as revered?
  • If products are viewed as assets, shouldn't they be tradable like financial commodities?

Such inquiries present unique opportunities to harness or innovate technology, be it materials science, blockchain, generative AI, or advanced personalization.

In ON_Fashion, The Secondary Market Issue we will explore these trends from a multitude of angles, driven by articles from some of the world’s leading experts in fashion, tech and business. Over the course of the coming days and weeks we will publish provocations and new perspectives that will unlock new ways to think about this fast growing and hugely disruptive segment of the market.

On September 13, we also host ON_Fashion a discourse-driven event, during New York Fashion Week to debate these topics with a group of C-Suite leaders, investors and tech entrepreneurs.

Interested in attending? Inquire about membership here: memberships@ondiscourse.com

Do you agree with this?
Do you disagree or have a completely different perspective?
We’d love to know

More

The Fashion Industry Treats Tech Like a Seasonal Trend

Ownership Has Fallen Out of Fashion Recap

Out With The New, In With The Old

The Future is Authenticated, Brands Risk Missing the Opportunity

Brands that AI forecast, fall. Brands that react, rise.

IP Law Applies to Physical and Digital Fashion Goods

Ownership has fallen out of fashion

AI forecasting is essential to fashion’s survival